Heat the ghee in a heavy Dutch oven or pressure cooker over medium heat. Add the thinly sliced onions and fry, stirring often, for 12–15 minutes until deep golden and crisp — this is birista, and it's the soul of a good pulao. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and set aside on a paper towel. (Frying in batches gives you evenly crisp onions.)

In the same ghee, add the bay leaves, green and black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, cumin seeds, peppercorns, and star anise. Sizzle for 30–45 seconds until intensely fragrant — this “pulao masala” base is what makes the rice smell incredible. Add the chopped onion and sauté 4–5 minutes until soft and golden.

Add the ginger garlic paste and slit green chilies; cook 1 minute. Add the chicken pieces, raise the heat to medium-high, and sear for 5–6 minutes until lightly browned. Stir in the whisked yogurt, coriander powder, cumin powder, garam masala, and salt. Cook 3–4 minutes, stirring, until the yogurt is absorbed and oil starts to glisten at the edges. Add half the fried onions, the cilantro, and the mint; toss to combine.

Drain the soaked basmati rice and add it to the pot. Gently fold for 1 minute so each grain is coated in the spiced ghee — this keeps grains separate and fluffy. Pour in the hot water (4½ cups for stovetop; 3¾ cups for Instant Pot/pressure cooker). Taste the liquid and adjust salt — it should taste slightly saltier than you'd like, as the rice will absorb it. Bring to a boil.

Stovetop method: Once boiling, cover with a tight lid, reduce heat to the lowest setting, and steam for 15–18 minutes. Do NOT lift the lid. Instant Pot method: Lock the lid, set to Pressure Cook (High) for 6 minutes with a 10-minute natural release, then quick-release. Stovetop pressure cooker: Cook for 1 whistle on medium-high, then lower heat and cook 6–8 minutes more; let pressure release naturally.

Let the pulao rest, covered, for 10 minutes off the heat — this is non-negotiable for separate, fluffy grains. Remove the lid, gently fluff the rice with a fork (never a spoon — it breaks grains), and fold in the remaining crispy fried onions. Serve hot with raita.